File:Tröja, 1610 cirka - Livrustkammaren - 100662.tif

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Tröja av röd guldbrokad, buren av Gustav II Adolf som tonåring, ca 1610.English: Doublet of red gold brocade, worn by Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden as a teenager, ca. 1610. (

)

Artist

Unknown author

Photographer

Miguel Herranz

Title

Tröja av röd guldbrokad, buren av Gustav II Adolf som tonåring, ca 1610.

English: Doublet of red gold brocade, worn by Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden as a teenager, ca. 1610.

Original caption

Note: For documentary purposes the original description has been retained. Factual corrections and alternative descriptions are encouraged separately from the original description.

Tröja, 1610 cirka.
Nyckelord: Kläder, 1600-tal, Föremålsbild

Description

Svenska: Material: Sannolikt tillverkat i Italien, lampas, broché. Röd botten med flotterande tunnare inslag av guldwire. Mönster: Tre varierande typer av blomsterkvistar, alla med en större och tre mindre slingrande blommor och mindre strödda lövformationer. Röd mönsterkontur. Motiven vävda i gulrosa, grönt, vitt och gult, samt guldtråd (både dragen wire och tråd med lan kring kärna av gult silke). Rapport: höjd 253-257 mm, bredd 137 mm
Manströjan är skuren med betonad spets i midjan. Den knäpps rakt ner hela vägen mitt fram, med 30 knapphål för små snörmakeriknappar.

I ryggen är tröjan rakt avskuren. Den har en ståndkrage som är högst mitt bak och som blir lägre fram där den knäppes, urspr. med 2 knappar och 2 tränsar. Runt midjan har tröjan 12 skört som alla i överkanten försetts med tränsade hål för fästande av byxorna genom dekorativa rosetter eller band. Ärmarna är långa, skurna i vinkel och med 200 mm långa sprund vid handleden där de knäpps med 11 knapphål. Över axeln har ärmarna axelkarmar. Tröjan är invändigt fodrad med brunröd sidentaft. Tröjan har mellanfoder samt planchett eller styvnad framtill i midjepartiet. För att ytterligare kunna fixera plagget har man på insidan på varje sida intill knäppningen fram sytt fast två små tampar som möts i vinkel och där försetts med ett snörhål varigenom en snodd kunnat dragas för att knyta samman styckena. Utefter sömmar och kanter har parallella, 3 mm breda, guldsnoddar sytts. Sålunda inramas knäppningen fram liksom kragen, ärmarnas bakre och främre sömmar samt markeras ryggens mitt och axelsömmen. Axelkarmarnas uppklippta tungor har kantmarkering av en smal snodd.

Mått:

Framstycke längd 435 mm (utan skört)
Ryggstycke längd 380 mm, bredd 460 mm
Axel 155 mm
Ärmlängd 660 mm, ärmsprund 200 mm
Krage höjd bak 55 mm
Axelkarm bredd 60 mm
Midjemått c 930 mm
Knäppning med 30 knappar och knapphål, i ärmsprundet 11 knapphål.

English: Fabric: Silk lampas with gold brocade, probably Italian. Red ground with thin hints of gold wire in the weft. Pattern: Three different types of winding floral branches, each with one large and three smaller blooms, and small strewn leaves and flowers. The motifs are outlined in red. The motifs are woven in yellow-rose, green, white and yellow, and gold wire, both drawn metal wire and filé (wire wrapped around a core of yellow silk). Repeat: height 253-257 mm, width 137 mm.

The doublet is cut in a deep point at the front waist. It closes down the front with 30 buttonholes for small thread-wrapped buttons. The doublet back waist is cut straight across. The collar is higher at the center back and lower in front where it originally fastened with 2 buttons and 2 loops. Around the waist are 12 doublet skirts or tabs with worked eyelets at the top for attaching the doublet to the breeches with points or ribbon bows. The sleeves are shaped and have a 200 mm long slit at the wrist where they close with 11 buttonholes. The shoulders have tabbed wings.

The doublet is lined with brownish-red taffeta. The doublet has been padded to add stiffness to the waist. To further secure the garment, two small straps with worked eyeletss are sewn on each front piece next to the button fastenings. These straps meet at an angle and a lace fastened through them could be pulled to tie the pieces together.

The seams and edges are trimmed with parallel 3 mm wide gold cord braids. Similar braids trim the collar, the rear and front seams of the sleeves, and the center back and shoulder seams. The individual tabs of the shoulder wings are connected with narrow gold cord.

Metrics:

Front length of 435 mm (17.12 in) (without skirts)
Back length 380 mm (14.96 in), width 460 mm (18.11 in)
Shoulder 155 mm (6.10 in)
Sleeve length , sleeve opening 200 mm (7.87 in)
Collar height (rear) 55 mm (2.16 in)
Shoulder wing 60 mm (2.36 in) wide
Waist circumference 930 mm (36.61 in)
Fastens with 30 buttons and buttonholes at the front, 11 buttonholes at the sleeve openings.

Date

circa 1610

Dimensions

length: 435 mm (17.12 in)
dimensions QS:P2043,435U174789
(framstycke exkl skört)
length: 380 mm (14.96 in)
dimensions QS:P2043,380U174789
(ryggstycke)
width: 460 mm (18.11 in)
dimensions QS:P2049,460U174789
(ryggstycke)
length: 660 mm (25.98 in)
dimensions QS:P2043,660U174789
(ärm)
height: 55 mm (2.16 in)
dimensions QS:P2048,55U174789
(krage bak)

Collection

Royal Armoury

	Native name	Livrustkammaren
	Parent institution	Stockholm Palace
	Location	Stockholm
	Coordinates	59° 19′ 36″ N, 18° 04′ 18″ E
	Established	1628
	Website	livrustkammaren.se
	Authority file	: Q1636176 VIAF: 311765067 ISNI: 0000000123698059 NKC: olak2008460190

Accession number

LRK 31300

Object history

Gustav II Adolf av Sverige Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden

Exhibition history

Gustav II Adolf 350 år efter Lützen (1982-1984)
Sweden - A Royal Treasury (1988-1989)
Gustav II Adolf (1994-1995)
Silver, siden, skrud och kista (1999)
Gustav II Adolf. Minnesutställning 1932
Spanish Costume in the Golden Age (2015) Museo de Santa Cruz in Toledo

Source

LSH 100662 (lm_dig15756)

Permission
(Reusing this file)

This file was provided to Wikimedia Commons by Livrustkammaren (The Royal Armoury) as part of a cooperation project with Wikimedia Sverige. All artworks in the photographs are owned by the museum and in the public domain due to age. The photographs themselves are either public domain due to age or the copyright is held by the museum which has made it available as CC0 or licensed it with the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

English | македонски | slovenščina | svenska | +/−

Photograph

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Attribution: Livrustkammaren (The Royal Armoury) / Miguel Herranz / CC BY-SA

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	Date/Time	Thumbnail	Dimensions	User	Comment
current	09:29, 3 November 2015		3,713 × 2,625, 2 pages (27.92 MB)	LSHuploadBot (talk \| contribs)	{{LSH artwork \|artist= \|title= {{Title\|Tröja av röd guldbrokad, buren av Gustav II Adolf som tonåring, ca 1610.}} \|description= {{sv\|1=Material: Sannolikt tillverkat i Italien, lampas, broché. Röd botten med flotterande tunnare inslag av guldwire...

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Camera manufacturer	Canon
Camera model	Canon EOS-1D X
Author	Miguel Herranz
Copyright holder	Licensed to the public under Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.
Exposure time	1/125 sec (0.008)
F-number	f/22
ISO speed rating	100
Date and time of data generation	15:53, 10 February 2015
Lens focal length	24 mm
Width	3,713 px
Height	2,625 px
Bits per component	8 8 8
Compression scheme	Uncompressed
Pixel composition	RGB
Image data location	34,208
Orientation	Normal
Number of components	3
Number of rows per strip	2,625
Bytes per compressed strip	29,239,875
Horizontal resolution	317.5428 dpi
Vertical resolution	317.5428 dpi
Data arrangement	chunky format
Software used	Adobe Photoshop CC 2014 (Windows)
File change date and time	15:18, 13 February 2015
Exposure Program	Manual
Exif version	2.3
Date and time of digitizing	15:53, 10 February 2015
APEX shutter speed	6.965784
APEX aperture	8.918863
APEX exposure bias	0
Maximum land aperture	3 APEX (f/2.83)
Metering mode	Spot
Flash	Flash did not fire, compulsory flash suppression
DateTimeOriginal subseconds	54
Color space	Uncalibrated
Focal plane X resolution	1,440
Focal plane Y resolution	1,440
Focal plane resolution unit	3
Custom image processing	Normal process
Exposure mode	Manual exposure
White balance	Auto white balance
Scene capture type	Standard

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File:Tröja, 1610 cirka - Livrustkammaren - 100662.tif

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doublet

creator

Miguel Herranz

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copyrighted

copyright license

Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported

Wikimedia VRTS ticket number

2013081910005037

captured with

Canon EOS-1D X

source of file

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