File:Plunging breaker (Sand Beach, Mt. Desert Island, Maine, USA) 13.jpg

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English: (12 September 2006)

This is the Atlantic coastline of Maine with a wave breaking at the shoreline. Waves are energy in motion. As waves approach shallow water and shorelines, the bottom portions of individual waves are slowed by frictional interaction with the sediment-water interface, while the upper parts of the waves are not significantly slowed. This results in oversteepening of the waves, followed by collapse - the wave "breaks".

Spilling breakers involve a mass of water and air rushing down the front of a wave - this happens at low gradient shorelines. Plunging breakers have a pocket of air formed as the top of the wave moves forward and downward. Surfers call large plunging breakers "barrel waves" - they enjoy surfing down the "tube" of a plunging breaker. Surging breakers have a wall of water suddenly rise from the water at the shoreline - this happens at shorelines with a steep gradient. Cliff-like, rocky shorelines have breakers that crash in large sprays of water.

Locality: marine shoreline at Sand Beach, Mt. Desert Island, Acadia National Park, coastal Maine, USA (44° 19' 43.62" North latitude, 68° 10' 57.04" West longitude)
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Source https://www.flickr.com/photos/47445767@N05/50031462898/
Author James St. John

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This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic license.
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This image was originally posted to Flickr by James St. John at https://flickr.com/photos/47445767@N05/50031462898. It was reviewed on 25 August 2020 by FlickreviewR 2 and was confirmed to be licensed under the terms of the cc-by-2.0.

25 August 2020

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current06:11, 25 August 2020Thumbnail for version as of 06:11, 25 August 20203,008 × 2,000 (4.05 MB)Ser Amantio di Nicolao (talk | contribs)Uploaded a work by James St. John from https://www.flickr.com/photos/47445767@N05/50031462898/ with UploadWizard

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